Edinburgh Weekend Review: Harris Tweed Bag Workshop, Butterscotch Beer and the Best Haggis
Edinburgh in January sounds like a dare, doesn't it? On Saturday 11 and Sunday 12 January 2025, Kelly and I took it anyway, and the city repaid us with blue skies over the castle, festive lights still twinkling on Victoria Street, a bagpiper who seemed to appear on cue and a Harris Tweed bag I still use today. Spoiler: this one scored a 10/10.
Our Base: No11 Boutique Hotel & Brasserie
We stayed at No11 Boutique Hotel & Brasserie, a Georgian townhouse on Brunswick Street. It's a gorgeous little boutique place with great vibes.
Edinburgh Castle and a Bagpiper on Cue
We started at Edinburgh Castle, where the January sky had clearly not read the weather forecast: clear blue over the esplanade. Inside, we found a stained-glass window of Queen Margaret, all jewel colours and light.
We also came across a piper in full Highland dress, playing in a stone doorway, which is about as Edinburgh as it gets.
A Butterscotch Beer on Victoria Street
Next stop was the Butterscotch Beer Cupboard Under the Stairs, a little counter at 30 Victoria Street run by The Elephant House. In my own words: we had a butterscotch beer to share from the place Harry Potter was written. Or so the Potter legend goes, and I'm not about to argue with a wizard. Even better for us, the butterscotch beer is alcohol-free, so it ticked the sober-friendly box too.
Victoria Street itself is the curvy, colourful street that plenty of fans say inspired Diagon Alley. We saw it by day, then came back after dark when the cobbles were wet and every shopfront was glowing.
The Worth It Moment: Making Our Own Harris Tweed Bags
If you only do one thing in Edinburgh, make it the Islander Harris Tweed handbag workshop. It's tucked under the old stone arches on East Market Street, and you're guided step by step through building your own bag from real Harris Tweed.
Between us we came away with a dark tartan tweed handbag with brown straps and a navy tweed wash bag. It was the absolute best, and I still use mine as my travel bag everywhere I go. It's that rare souvenir that actually earns its place, a bit like the one painting we brought home from Antigua.
Old Town After Dark and Dinner at 1802
Edinburgh's Old Town does nighttime beautifully: lamp-lit closes, stone everywhere and St Giles' Cathedral lit up like a stage set. On Saturday night we had dinner at 1802 Lounge and Grill to round off a very full day.
Sunday Brunch at Laila: The Best Haggis of the Weekend
Sunday started with brunch at Laila. In my photo you can spot a fruity bowl, a pink milkshake piled with marshmallows and a coffee in a blue cup, but the real headline is this: it was weirdly the best haggis I had all weekend. In Scotland. At a brunch spot. I don't make the rules.
Drinks with the Monster at Frankenstein
On Sunday evening we popped into Frankenstein, a themed bar in a converted 19th-century church on George IV Bridge. We were there for drinks only (alcohol-free for us, as ever: here's why you won't find any booze here).
We wandered back past St Giles', glowing at night with its Christmas tree still standing.
Good to Know
Islander workshop: Arch 10, The Arches, East Market Street. Sessions take around 60 to 90 minutes, Islander suggests booking about four weeks ahead, the minimum age is 12 and it's one bag per person per session.
Butterscotch Beer Cupboard Under the Stairs: 30 Victoria Street. A takeaway counter, and the butterscotch beer is alcohol-free.
Frankenstein: 26 George IV Bridge.
No11 Boutique Hotel & Brasserie: 11 Brunswick Street.
Was It Worth It?
Completely. Nothing bad about it. Castle, piper, butterscotch beer, a handmade bag I use everywhere and the best haggis turning up at brunch. That's what Worth It Moments is all about: some moments are worth the tummy ache, and this weekend was worth it from start to finish.
Worth It score: 10/10 | Highlight: Making our own Harris Tweed bags at Islander | Sober-friendly: Alcohol-free butterscotch beer on Victoria Street | Would we go back? Nothing bad about it, so in a heartbeat.
Have you made your own Harris Tweed bag, or found better haggis somewhere unexpected? Tell us in the comments.
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